by Liz Curry
There is something about an encounter with a piece of vintage clothing. You ponder the journey the item has made, its history, its story, whose shoulders it graced and who loved it intensely when it was brand new. Little did we know the ultimate vintage closet is right under our noses in our very own North Texas. The Texas Fashion Collection, located in Denton, holds over 15,000 historical garments from the 19th and 20th centuries. Each item took a passage through time and now holds a purpose higher than the decorative use for which it was intended: to preserve our history and educate our local community.
In 1938 Stanley and Edward Marcus began acquiring winning designs from the Neiman Marcus Awards, conserving pieces from fashion icons such as Elsa Schiaparelli,Norman Norell, Coco Chanel, and many other “7th Avenue designers,” explains Texas Fashion Collection curator Myra Walker. The Neiman’s collection was a tribute to their aunt Carrie Marcus, a co-founder of Neiman Marcus and style guru for the high-end clothier.
These priceless gems were preserved by the Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation and were eventually turned over to the Dallas Fashion Group by Stanley Marcus in the early ‘60s, becoming part of the Dallas Museum of Fashion. Along with the Carrie Marcus Neiman contribution, the Dallas Fashion Group was able to compile historical dress through donations from age-old hope chests and rare findings from Dallas residents and beyond.
Today the compilation is housed at the University of North Texas as a part of the College of Visual Arts and Design, where it has been growing and educating since 1972. The name was later changed to the Texas Fashion Collection, and is currently managed by Professor Myra Walker who conducts tours of the historical wardrobe on an appointment basis.
Every couple of months, Professor Walker opens the closet in search of the next historical era to be showcased at the exhibition facility in downtown Dallas, called "Fashion on Main." This gallery, located at the Universities Center at Dallas, is open to the public for a free viewing on Thursdays and Fridays from noon until 5 p.m., and is truly a time capsule for antique fashions. Currently Dallas residents can travel back in time to an era of jazz music, art deco and boot legging. Yes, the ‘20s are roaring at Fashion on Main, with an exhibit entitled “Painting the Town,”featuring rarely seen flapper gowns, opera capes and authentic era footwear.
The primitive flapper gown silhouette can be characterized as the beginning of short, tunic-style dresses with dropped waistlines, an enduring fashion still seen today. “The rectangular shape of the flapper dress became popular around 1925 to ’26,” says Walker. The gowns displayed feature intricate beadwork in fragile textiles such as silk, satin and chiffon. A beautiful array of opera capes trimmed in fur are also available for viewing, and a “neo-classic inspired evening gown” completes the diversity of the exhibit with its “higher waistline and longer hemline [which] are hallmarks of the early 1920s,” Walker explains.
Among this rich culture is an exclusive display of hostess pantsuits by New York designer Regina Kobler. The pantsuit served a functional and fashionable role during house parties due to the Prohibition Era, and have rarely been shown or discussed in typical historical displays. “Kobler exemplifies the elegance and freedom women displayed while entertaining at home,” says Walker. These pantsuits are not only original designs by this 1920s artist, but were also items in her personal closet. Salvaged scrapbook images of designs by Kobler can be viewed, expanding the uniqueness authenticity of this exhibit.
These time-worn ensembles are a true reflection of high-style during the Jazz Age, and the exhibit is a wonderful experience. As Walker puts it, “There are a lot of stories in here,” and the effect is absolutely magical. The garments will continue to be available to the public through December 18th.
For more information visit www.tfc.unt.edu
